Step 5 : Preparing the Screen for Exposure I carefully placed mine back in the original box bottom to protect it. Once your screen is dry you are ready for the “exposure” part. Assemble what I call the “screen sandwich” which is a sturdy piece of cardboard (so you can carry the screen into the sun easily), followed by a piece of black fabric to reduce reflection, the prepared wood screen (bottom side up), the transparencies (face down), and finally a piece of glass to hold your image in place against the screen.Īs soon as you are ready to go (with no distractions), take your screen out of its cool dark place (but still in a dim area) and remove the pushpins. ![]() Note: I use natural sunlight for my light source. If you have any questions, don’t hesitate to leave a comment down below or shoot me an email.It is best to wait until the sun is high in the sky (i.e. You’ll want to cover the design with a thin fabric or sheet of paper and then apply heat for 3 minutes (if you’re using a standard iron) but keep the iron moving to avoid scorching. *Speedball fabric ink has to be heat set so, once the ink fully dries, use a household iron or a heat press to heat set the ink into the fabric from both sides. That’s all there is to it! It took me less than 10 minutes from start to finish. I probably could’ve gone over this one once more to get solid white letters but I actually love the vintage look of it. You’ll want to hold the screen down firmly with your free hand and use a decent amount of pressure when dragging the ink over the stencil.Ĭarefully lift the screen to reveal the screen printed image. Line the squeegee up so that you arent missing the top or bottom of your design and then, in one swift movement, drag the squeegee over the ink and right over the stencil. Use painters tape to mask off the rest of the screen around the vinyl stencil.Īpply a generous strip of the speedball ink down the side of the screen, right on top of the painters tape is fine. If you have any bubbles or creases just press them back down after the transfer tape is fully removed. This part is a little tricky because the vinyl wants to stick to the transfer tape instead of the screen but if you take it slow, it’s fairly easy. ![]() Peel the transfer tape away from the vinyl. Use the scraper tool again to make sure the vinyl is fully adhered to the screen. Peel the transfer tape and vinyl off of the vinyl’s paper backing and transfer it to the screen. Don’t reverse the image or anything like that.Īfter your design finishes cutting, weed away the letters (or whatever) leaving behind a stencil.Īpply a piece of transfer tape over the vinyl stencil and use a scraper tool to make sure it sticks really well. Start by choosing a design and cutting it out of the vinyl just as you normally would a decal. Need! They also carry various sizes of screens and squeegees but if you’re a newbie I would recommend starting small like I did. Speedball has a ton of colors to choose from though and I immediately clicked “add to cart” on all of them when I finished this project. ![]() Since this was a new thing for me I started small and ordered the 10×14 screen, the 12 inch squeegee and fabric ink in black and white. Keep reading to learn how!įirst let’s chat about Speedball’s products. I may never use heat transfer vinyl again. Hey crafty gals! I’m so excited for today’s post! I just tried screenprinting with Speedball ink and vinyl for the very first time and I am OBSESSED with the outcome.
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